Stitchdown shoes



Jan. 8, 1957 s. CURTIN STITCHDOWN SHOES 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed April 11, 1955 [nveni0r Leonard S. C'ur'L /n Jan. 8, 1957 1.. s. CURTIN 2,776,501

STITCHDOWN SHOES Filed April 11, 1955 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 lnverzzor Leonard S. Curzz'rz,

United States Patent STITCHDOWN SHOES Leonard S. Curtin, Arlington, Mass., assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Flemington, N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application April 11, 1955, Serial No. 500,347

1 Claim. (CI. 36-16) This invention relates to shoes and is herein illustrated in its application to stitchdown shoe construction.

In the manufacture of stitchdown shoes having cover strips wrapped around the projecting margins of extension soles positioned between the insole and the outsole it is desirable that the cover strip fit snugly into the angle between the body portion of the upper and its outwardly flanged bottom margin and that the cover strip be securely and permanently held in this position during the life of the shoe so that the fastenings securing the cover strip to the margins of the extension soles will be permanently concealed.

To this end the present invention, in one aspect thereof, consists in the provision in a stitchdown shoe in which the outwardly flanged margin of the upper is secured by suitable fastenings to a first extension sole, of a second extension sole which provides a suitable anchorage for a second line of fastenings which attaches a cover strip to the outwardly flanged margin of the upper and the margins of the two extension soles. Preferably the second extension sole is made of rubber or a material having properties similar to rubber so that an outsole may be attached to the second extension sole by cement without previously performing a roughing operation thereon. The shoe is provided with an insole having a portion at least of its edge face substantially spaced from the inner wall of the shoe and is provided with an upper the bottom margin of which is arranged in contiguous relation to the edge face of the insole. In the illustrated construction the offset edge face of the insole is at the toe end of the shoe. This construction of the insole permits the upper at the toe end of the shoe to be brought in under the shoe bottom sufliciently to give the toe portion an appearance characteristic of a shoe in which the toe portion of the upper is lasted over the insole. The outwardly flanged margin of the upper is preferably secured to the first extension sole by a chain stitch seam since this is in the nature of a temporary attachment. The chain stitch seam is located substantially at the junction of the body portion of the upper and its outwardly flanged margin. The cover strip is attached by a lock stitch seam contiguous to and at the inner side of the chain stitch seam and providing a permanent attachment whereby the cover strip and the upper are secured to the two extension soles.

The invention will now be described with reference to the accompanying drawings and pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawings: I

Fig. l is a perspective view of a shoe embodying the features of the present invention, the illustrated shoe having its toe portion broken out and sectioned in two planes to illustrate the details of construction;

Fig. 2 is a plan view on a larger scale than Fig. 1 illustrating portions of the shoe parts at an intermediate stage in the manufacture of the shoe;

Fig. 3 is a plan view of the toe portion of the shoe bottom, taken at an intermediate stage in the platform cover lasting operation, the soles being broken away at different locations to show the underlying structure;

Fig. 4 is a cross sectional view showing the shoe at an early stage in its manufacture; and

Figs. 5, 6, 7 and 8 are sectional views taken on the same plane as Fig. 4 and illustrating one side portion only of the shoe at different stages in its manufacture.

Referring to Fig. 1, the illustrated shoe comprises a closed upper 10 having a lining 12 and a box toe 16 which are lasted inwardly against the edge face of an insole 14, said edge face being offset inwardly from the edge of the last bottom as in the shoe illustrated and described in United States Letters Patent No. 2,467,466, granted April 19, 1949, on an application filed in my name. The lining and the upper have their margins trimmed oil on the plane of the bottom surface of the insole 14. The bottom margin of the upper 10 is flanged outwardly and secured by a chain stitch seam 18 to a first extension sole 20 which may be made of any suitable material such as fiber board, the margin of the extension sole, as shown in Fig. 4, extending sufiiciently beyond the edge of the insole to facilitate the stitching of the upper thereto along a line substantially coincidental with the junction of the body portion of the upper and its outturned flange. A wrapper or cover 22 is secured by a lock stitch seam 24 to the outwardly flanged margin of the upper, the first extension sole 20 and a second extension sole 26, which is preferably made of a material, such for example as rubber, to which soleattaching cement will permanently bond without previously performing a roughing operation thereon. A tread sole 28, preferably made of sponge rubber, is cement attached to the bottom of the second extension sole and to the suitably roughed overlasted margin of the cover 22. As shown in Fig. l, the tread sole 28 is a molded unit having a heel 30 formed integrally therewith. Referring to Fig. 6, the chain stitch seam 18, which secures the outwardly flanged margin of the upper to the first extension sole 20, is positioned at the junction of the body portion of the upper and its outwardly turned flange and the lock stitch seam 24 which secures the cover 22 and the second extension sole 26 in their positions shown in Fig. 6 is arranged in substantially contiguous relation to the chain stitch seam 18 and preferably is positioned at the inner side thereof.

In accordance with the method set forth in my patent hereinbefore referred to the upper is pulled over and the toe lasted in the same manner as a Goodyear welt shoe, the upper materials being lasted into abutting relation to the edge face of the insole 14 which, at its toe portion, is offset inwardly from the edge of the last bottom. After the box too has set in lasted position the margin of the upper is turned outwardly and the lining and box toe are trimmed flush with the bottom surface of the insole. The upper is then secured to the first extension sole 20 by the chain stitch seam 18. The second extension sole 26 is then spotted on the first extension sole and provisionally secured thereto at selected points by adhesive. The second extension sole is then permanently attached to the shoe bottom by the lock stitch seam 24 and in the same operation the cover member 22, which is made of grain leather or a suitable substitute therefor, is secured to the upper at theroot of its outturned flange with the grain face of the cover member contacting the grain outer surface of the upper.

After the formation of the lock stitch seam the marginal materials, then wiped inwardly over the margin of the second extension sole and cement attached thereto.

Thereupon the overwipedportion of the cover member 22 is roughed toprovide for thebonding of adhesivewill be understood that inasmuch as the second extension sole is made of rubber or of a material having like properties, no roughing thereof to provide for the bonding of adhesive thereto is required.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States'is:

A stitchdown shoe having a bottom structure characterized by an insole having a portion at least of its edge face substantially spaced from the inner wall of theshoe, a shoe upper having an outwardly turned flange, a first: extension sole, a chain stitch seam located at the junction of the body portion of the upper and its outwardly turned flange and securing the upper to the first extension soleand in contiguous relation to the edge face of the insole, a second extension sole, a cover strip, anda lock stitch seam securing the cover strip, the outwardly turned flangeof the upper and thefirst extension sole to the second extension sole, said lock stitch seam being contiguous to and at the inner side of the chain stitch seam.

References Cited in thefile of this patent UNITED. STATES, PATENTS 267,840 Cook Nov. 21, 1882 268,891 Hindley Dec. 12, 1882 1,494,163 Frechette May 13, 1924 2,264,112 Cassotta Nov; 25, 1941 2,329,725, Mondl Sept. 21, 1943 2,641,067 Nappi June 9, 1953 FOREIGN PATENTS 436,657 Italy Dec. 31, 1947 517,971 France Dec. 23, 1920 652,180 Great Britain Apr. 18, 1951 975,398 France Oct. 11, 1950 

